Well golf ball affect I know is good for flow like say in an intake, piston doent really see flow well I'm kind of assuming it doesn't seem like it. Also having a mirror on the dome does reflect heat so should have cooled piston top temps resulting in more "power" how much who knows, all I know is after doing it once it seemed like smoother operations and I've knock on wood never seized a cylinder once, I wouldn't give myself that much credit for tuning I think a do a good job but part of me thinks this polishing job helps prevent that.
Ya I don't think all that work is really worth it, I could see it helping in areas where there is wear but no so much where it's just aero, except maybe that it won't hold the oil making it "lighter" I guess. I built a rear end gear once for a race car and polished all the black oxide surfaces, it was smooth and maybe less oil slinging or something but nothing more then a big waste of time because they weren't wear surfaces.
Sanding down the piston until there's no more ridges will be making your piston way too small. It may work ok now but you won't get , miles out of it because you just sanded away half or more of it's life. I build my engines to be like most moped engines to last years or so at least and I change the ring or rings around every 4 to miles depending on wear and change the piston every 10 to 12, miles. I polish the dome but more for carbon build up reasons and in a sense that's cooling, more carbon on your head more compression, more compression more heat.
Something about a smooth layer of static gas forming along the surface when it's blowing by it as in golfball effect. Search around and You'll find the discussion.
I try to leave the transfers a little rough, just do a quick rough sand to smooth the cutter marks. I'm just curious how much clearance he's got after all the polishing, seems like it would lessen its life span as ken mentioned too. Is there enough material on the top of a moped piston to golf ball it, without significantly weakening it?
Never thought of it as taking half the life of the piston away but I'm almost thinking it might be a wash bc it being polished reduces wear and therefore might be increasing the life of the piston, idk just a thought, I honestly don't ride as much as most of you, I don't ride thousands of miles, I ride prolly a couple hundred and look for something more, currently working on a rear disc brake idea to still keep all stock configurations including pedals and I think I have a flawless idea more coming soon on that keeping pedals too.
Pistons Post by Mystang » Mon Feb 06, pm Thanks guys, I certainly have other things that will better consume my time! I appreciate the advice. I couldn find the story tonight but will locate it sometime as i don't throw anything out. If you can find it, I'd love to see it. Post by femtnmax » Tue Feb 07, am KB-silvolite tech article suggests polishing the piston tops. One of the experiments included the removal of the heads followed by a thorough cleaning of the light carbon deposits in the chambers and on the pistons.
After installing the heads again, the engine was down on power from where we'd been previously. As we accrued more run time on the engine, the power came back In the mid's we did some work with a laboratory here in Texas that was formulating additives that removed carbon from intake ports and combustion chambers. If you want to clean them up and are meticulous then it should be fine.
Just put masking tape around the perimeter of the piston so that nothing can get in the PTW area or any of the holes in the block.
Then clean off the tape before you pull it off. I didn't touch the outside of the relief near the ringland because they are dangerously thin to begin with. If you take your time and don't go crazy it should help some, though I don't know how much. While you're at it, you can benefit from doing the same thing to the head CC area.
Just be smart about it. Your piston isnt going to be lopsided because he polishes the serial number on the piston. I would polish the valve reliefs because they can be sharp enough to cause predetonation. I honestly wouldn't bother touching them! I couldn't possibly imagine there would be any noticable real world difference.
It's not controversial. Automotive manufacturers for years have said to run the motor up high in deliberate, short, and taxing sperts to properly break in the new vehicle motor. A machine shop that tells you not to is afraid of their work and is wanting you to eak by until the warranty has lapsed. Craig, I applaud you're attention to detail But don't sweat it. Even if you can polish away the stamping, you'd be removing enough material to need the pistons rebalanced, IMHO.
Nice Wisecos! If the stamping WERE a hotspot, it is also rather close to the initial flame kernal. Very minimal detonation chance. Guys get in trouble when their valves kiss the piston rim far away from the kernal and make hotspots there where the valve reliefs are. You must log in or register to reply here. Similar threads. Replies 1 Views Should I put oil on the threads of my head bolts? Here are some pics that maybe you can get an idea of how much further I need to go!!! You can never avoid carbon build up no matter how much you polish them but for the sake of preventing pre-ignition getting everything in the combustion chamber nice and smooth is never a bad thing.
Its actually quite easy to de-carbon your combustion chamber at any time with nothing more than a little 'water-injection' while the engine is running under load. The water vapor getting into the carbon and turning into steam can remove all the accumulated carbon build up out of there.
If you have ever taken apart an engine that blew a head gasket or had a leaky manifold gasket that allowed a little water into an operational combustion chamber its easy to see this effect first hand. I have done that on other cars before. But, do we really want all that hard carbon running through our turbos? White - 53, miles bought Blue - k miles bought with k miles. I can get steel to look like a mirror, I can only get aluminum to look like a cloudy mirror.
Is there a technique or compound that will bring it to a mirror finish? I just re-did them about 15 minutes ago and I can see my reflection in them I guess that means I am not a vampire but nowhere near as clear as a mirror.
Flieger's Garage Porsche S. It is very hard to get Aluminum and especially Magnesium to stay polished. I would not go crazy with a mirror finish on your pistons. I don't think it will last too long and there will not be that big of a difference between a rougher finish. Aluminum oxidizes right away and unless you anodize them which makes a little cloudyness in the finish they will not stay mirror finish for long. This is the best you can hope for:.
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